A 401k rollover requires that 20 percent of the amount being rolled over be withheld for taxes, even though the account owner still has to deposit 100 percent of the amount within 60 days to avoid taxes and penalties.

A 401k transfer requires no withholding and moves the funds tax-free.

An IRA rollover gives the account owner 60 days to deposit any rolled over funds into a new IRA account. IRS rules limit each taxpayer to only one rollover per year.

An IRA transfer moves the money directly to a new qualified retirement plan account with no delays and with no one per year limits.

FBO – For Benefit Of

A trustee-to-trustee transfer occurs when you move funds from one qualified retirement plan custodian to another without ever having control of the money. The easiest way for the IRA owner to do this is electronically with the the financial institutions moving the money from one account to the other by computer. However, it isn’t the only way it is done.

Some IRA banks and brokerages send the account owner a check. This is easier on them because they don’t have to interface their account systems with another bank’s account systems. If they make the check payable to you, however, you have taken control of the funds and started a rollover, not a transfer.

It all comes down to three little letters on the check: FBO.

FBO stands for "for benefit of" and it is a method of writing a check to you, without actually writing a check to you.

An FBO check is a third-party check. In this case, the check will be made out to the new IRA custodian, usually a bank or brokerage firm, for your benefit. That makes all the difference in the world.

As the FBO on the check, you do not endorse the check. You cannot deposit the check in your bank account. You cannot cash the check. The check is not made out to you. It is made out to Vanguard or Fidelity or whoever is your new IRA company.

The FBO means that you will eventually be the final recipient of the funds. Merrill Lynch can’t just cash your check either. That would violate the FBO portion of the payee. However, you do not get control of the funds until … they are already in your IRA. Viola! Trustee-to-trustee transfer, and not a rollover!

If you are trying to do a transfer and not a rollover and you get a check from your old 401k company or IRA company that is made out directly to you (without the FBO) return the check immediately. Cashing the check or depositing it is the worst thing you can do because that gives you control over the funds and turns your transaction into a rollover.

Your new retirement plan bank or brokerage should help guide you through the process, but it is always smart to know what is going on before you get started.

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Difference Between a Rollover and a Transfer originally published at Finance Gourmet

What Does Pre-Tax Mean?

Pre-tax dollars is a phrase that is often used in conjunction with retirement planning and 401k contributions. In fact, one of the benefits of a 401k plan is that contributions are made with pre-tax dollars. But, what is the definition of pre-tax dollars, anyway?

When an employee gets paid, there are numerous deductions that get taken out of their paycheck. These payroll deductions range from income tax withholding to FICA taxes to voluntary contributions for things like health insurance or cafeteria plans (Section 125 plans).

Some of the deductions from your paycheck, like federal tax withholding, are computed based on how much you are paid. Pre-tax means that the deduction occurs before that withholding is calculated. This is why many financial writers and other financial experts point out that contributing to your 401k plan doesn’t actually reduce your paycheck by the full amount.

It is worth noting that both Medicare taxes and Social Security taxes are not reduced by pre-tax contributions to your 401k. That is why there is separate entry for FICA Wages or Social Security Wages on your paystub or W2 Form.

How Pre-Tax Contributions Affect Your Taxes

The impact of pre-tax contributions on your taxes goes beyond just how it changes calculations on your paycheck. Pre-tax 401k deferrals are also not included in the taxable wages reported on Form W-2.

W-2 wages are used as the starting point for calculating your Adjusted Gross Income and Modified Adjusted Gross Income (MAGI). These two numbers form the basis of your taxable income. Just as importantly, these numbers also determine your eligibility for numerous tax deductions and tax credits, as well eligibility for tax items with income limits.

For example, contributing to your 401k reduces the your income for purposes of determining whether an IRA contribution is deductible or whether you meet the income limits for Roth IRA contributions.  It also can affect which tax bracket you are in. Contribute enough to your 401k to drop your income under the bottom of the tax bracket and you’ll pay taxes in the lower bracket only.

401k Contributions and Advanced Tax Planning

Unlike IRA contributions which can be made until April 15th of the following tax year, 401k contributions have to be during the tax year (before December 31st). 401k contributions also have to be made via salary withholding which means you can’t just write a $10,000 check at the end of the year to bump up your 401k contributions to the right level.

In order to specifically target an income level or total wages, you’ll need some advance tax planning. Calculate the ballpark withholding you think you’ll need at the beginning of the year and notify your employer. Then, over the course of the year monitor your 401k withholding and wages to see if they are tracking to the target you have. Adjust your 401k contributions during the summer and again in October. That means only subtle shifts should be necessary (if at all) in the last couple months of the year.

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What Are Pre-Tax Dollars? originally published at Finance Gourmet

Should I convert my IRA to a Roth in 2010?

There is a special 2010 tax trick that allows you to convert your traditional IRA to a Roth IRA and spread the taxes from the IRA conversion out over the next two tax years. That little tax secret expires at the end of 2010, which means that unless you convert your IRA to a Roth before year-end, you can’t lower your taxes with that tax loophole.

Roth IRA conversions are open to everyone regardless of income from now on. However, there are still Roth IRA income limits for contributions.

Is It A Good Idea To Convert IRAs in 2010?

Normally, making a big tax move like a Roth conversion late in the year is not a good tax strategy for most people because it doesn’t give you any time to compensate for it.

For example, if you were to convert an IRA to a Roth IRA in 2011, you will owe income taxes on the amount of money converted, minus any non-deductible IRA contributions you made to the traditional IRA or 401k you are converting to a Roth. Without the special tax rules for 2010, all of those taxes are due when you pay your 2011 taxes (filed by April, 2012). If you converted your IRA early in 2011, you could adjust your tax withholdings on your W-2 at work, or increase your estimated quarterly tax payments if you are a small business owner. Over several months, those small changes would blunt the tax hit of the conversion.

On the other hand, if you converted your IRA near the end of 2011 and generated a $10,000 tax spike, there isn’t much you can do about it. You can adjust your withholdings, but unless it is a big change, it won’t add up to much. Adjusting your W2 to withhold an extra $300 a month starting in February adds up to $3,000 by December. Doing the same thing in November adds up to just $600.

Best Tax Move For 2010 End of Year

For 2010, however, there are special tax rules for IRA conversions that make this year the right time to convert your traditional IRA to a Roth IRA. In fact, few 2010 year-end tax moves can save you more on your taxes.

For 2010 only, you can report the conversion income from your Roth IRA on your 2011 and 2012 tax returns. Spreading the Roth conversion taxes out over two years means you only have to pay half in 2011, and the other half in 2012.

Even if you have the money laying around to pay for your conversion, this is still a smart financial move.

If your Roth conversion generated income taxes of $10,000, you could put $5,000 in a 1-year CD or a high-interest money market account to pay the taxes in 2011, and put the other $5,000 in a 2-year CD or MMA to pay the taxes in 2012. Not only do you not have to worry about the Roth IRA conversion taxes, you can make money on your tax liabilities by deferring them for a year.

If you are planning to convert your IRA in the near future, convert it now before the 2010 tax-year ends. You’ll have plenty of time to plan for the taxes thanks to the special tax treatment you get in 2010.

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Should I Convert My IRA to a Roth IRA In 2010? originally published at Finance Gourmet

That question about retirement planning is very common. I’ve written up short answers, detailed answers, courseware, seminars, flyers, tear sheets, white papers, and who knows what else about what a Roth IRA account is versus a traditional IRA account.

Lately, the questions, while similar have gotten more varied:

• What is the difference between a SEP-IRA and a SIMPLE IRA?
• What is the difference between a Rollover IRA and Traditional IRA?
• What is the difference between a regular IRA and special IRA?

That last one says to me that somewhere out there, there is a popular financial planning book, personal finance speaker, or television show using terminology that is either inaccurate, or poorly understood. Either way, here is a crash course in all the types of IRAs, what they are, how they work, and who they are for.

Regular IRA Accounts – Individual IRAs – Personal IRA Accounts – Normal IRA Accounts

Let’s start at the beginning.

All IRA accounts are, by definition, personal IRA accounts, or individual IRA accounts. There is no such thing as a joint IRA. There is no such thing as an IRA account with more than one owner.

An IRA, according to the IRS, is an Individual Retirement Arrangement. The ‘i’ in IRA stands for Individual. All IRAs are Individual IRAs.

There is no such thing as a regular IRA account or a normal IRA account. However, when most people say such a thing, they mean traditional IRA, which was the first widely known IRA account to exist, and is thus, often considered “normal” or “regular.”

Traditional IRA Versus Roth IRA

If you want an in-depth explanation of how IRAs work then click the link. Otherwise, here is the short, short, version.

A traditional IRA offers (some) people a tax deduction up front when you contribute the money. In exchange, you owe taxes on all money in an IRA when you withdraw it, no matter how old you are.

The same thing applies to 401(k) plans, 457 plans, and 403(b) retirement plans.

A Roth IRA works in reverse. You get no tax deduction for Roth IRA contributions today. However, when you retire, you can take all of the money out of a Roth IRA tax-free, including all interest and capital gains.

If you are licking your lips, then you understand the power of the Roth IRA. Years of tax-free compound interest will generate more money than you could ever possibly save by deducting a few thousand dollars per year on your taxes.

Since no taxes are due on money inside a Roth IRA, the IRS doesn’t care if you ever take it out, so there are no required minimum withdrawals, or RMDs necessary on a Roth IRA.

For traditional IRA accounts, you must begin taking an RMD after age 70 1/2, until you die.

Next: Small Business IRA Plans

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Types of IRAs Guide originally published at Finance Gourmet

We have discussed if it is smart to pay off your home early before.

Unless paying off your home still leaves you with a sizable amount of cashable assets, the answer usually is not what you think. For people without substantial assets remaining after paying off the mortgage, owning your house free and clear does nothing but trap a lot of money where you can’t get it, inside your house. Financial professionals call the equity in your home that you are not going to sell “dead equity.”

Here is what to do with your assets before you pay off your mortgage, and also, a quick look at understanding the pros and cons of a reverse mortgage.

Reverse Mortgage Mythology

The first thing out of many people’s mouth when they come to see me with a ton of equity and no retirement savings is “reverse mortgage.” Sometime in the next decade you’ll see a major government campaign to clear up the misconceptions around reverse mortgages as more and more baby boomers find themselves unable to support themselves because they were counting on a reverse mortgage.

For a sobering reality check visit the AARP Reverse Mortgage Calculator (Stay off of other reverse mortgage web sites. This subject is an area full of scams and con-artists. Searching for “reverse mortgage” is a recipe for disaster.)

The guys in our example above can get between $150,000 and $200,000 in a reverse mortgage if the owners are 75. Want one at 65? As low as $65,000. Keep in mind that once you take a reverse mortgage, you are no longer the owner of the home for borrowing purposes, so you CANNOT get a home equity loan of any kind after you get a reverse mortgage. How long do you think $65,000 will last in retirement?

What To Do?

Obviously since this is an article on the psychology of money, I am well aware that you might want to pay off your mortgage anyway. If so, here is the smart way to go about it.

1. Cash Reserve – If you don’t have 6 months worth of expenses in a non-retirement account (not a 401(k) or IRA) then save money into a money market account first. Only after you have six months worth of savings should you consider paying off your mortgage.
2. Worse Loans – If you have ANY OTHER kind of loan you are better off paying it off first. Most important is to pay off all credit card debt. That’s right, all. Every cent. If you have any credit card debt you are an idiot for sending extra money to your mortgage. I can’t be any plainer than that. Be sure to maximize the credit cards you do have by taking advantage of credit card reward programs like the Capital One rewards and Citibank rewards. Also, pay off student loans and car loans first. Don’t bother paying off a car lease. With most leases you pay all the interest whether you pay it off early or not, so don’t bother.
3. Retirement – If you are not saving at least 10% of your salary into your 401(k), then do not send extra money to your mortgage. Instead, increase your contribution to your 401(k). You will need an account built up of many years worth of 10% savings in order to retire comfortably and PAY FOR YOUR HOUSE’s non-mortgage expenses. If you get a lump sum of money, then put it in a money market account, increase your 401(k) contribution and use withdrawals from the money market account to make up the shortfall in your paycheck. By the way, if you are over 50 and your 401(k) balance isn’t north of $300,000 then go 15% ASAP and don’t bother with the mortgage.
4. Major Expenses – Don’t be near sighted. Scan the horizon for major up-coming expenses. Want to know where to look? Try a glance at your kids first. How many years until college? Are you where you want to be for helping them out? If Annie is 16 years old and you have an extra $20,000 do you think the smart move is to pay $20,000 on your mortgage today and then get a $20,000 home equity loan in 2 years? (The answer is no.)
5. Does Another Option Sound Safe Too? – Many people who pay off their mortgage do so because it sounds “safe”. Ask yourself if anything else would make you feel just as safe. For example, if you had a $200,000 mortgage and $100,000 in U.S. Savings Bonds would that make you feel safe? (Savings Bonds are garbage by the way, it was just an example.)
6. Feel O.K. About Paying in Chunks? – Most people pay off their mortgage early by sending extra money in with their payments. I myself round up to the next $100 just because it makes me feel good and it doesn’t have any overall impact. But, if you are sending an extra $500 or $1,000 a month consider the “Big Extra Payment” strategy. Instead of sending an extra $1,000 to the mortgage company, put it in a money market account. Wait 15 or 20 months. Now, if you still want to pay early on your mortgage you can send in $15,000 or $20,000 all at once. The interest you pay in the meantime will be equalized by the amount you earned on the savings. This way, if something happens, say in month 13, you’ll have $13,000 that you can replace the roof with (or whatever) instead of scrambling to come up with the dough.

Discipline Anyone?

Tons of people proudly tell me how they claim less withholdings on their W-4 than they have to because then they get a big refund when they do their taxes. You’ve heard all about how this is a dumb strategy because it’s the same thing as giving the government and interest free loan. They do it anyway. Why?

For most people an extra $200 in their paycheck is something they just spend without ever noticing. But, $2,400 all at once is something that they would do something smart with. For these people, the “forced savings” plan of low-balling your W-4 withholdings is the only way they’ll ever save money. I suppose it is better than nothing.

A similar kind of person likes the idea of paying off their mortgage early for the same reason. The theory is that if they saved $500 a month, then eventually they would notice $5,000 in the bank and they would blow it on a vacation or a car. Instead, if they send $500 a month to the mortgage company then they won’t have that extra money so they won’t spend it.

You know yourself better than anyone else and if this describes you then by all means, do what works for you. I’m the first one to say that financial planning is about more than the math. It’s about what will actually work. So, send the extra money to your mortgage company, but do yourself a favor and see if you can’t work on building the financial savvy and discipline that would help you in the long run. Maybe send $400 to the mortgage company and save $100. Put the $100 someplace it’s harder to get to like at a bank a four-hour drive away. Don’t setup online access and cut up the ATM card the second you get it. Then, that $100 will build up and you won’t be able to spend it on a whim. With the extra time to think about it, you might just find that you have the discipline after all.

Good Luck

If you do manage to pay off your house, congratulations. It is a noble goal and I am not speaking against it. In fact, the best retirement planning I do is for people with their house paid off. But, it has to be that they have their house paid off AND they have significant savings. Planning for someone with no mortgage and $700,000 is a joy. Trying to squeeze a budget out of $250,000 even with no mortgage is an exercise in bargain shopping and cutting down to the bare necessities.

Just understand that there are many factors to be taken into consideration. Once you have looked at all the factors, then pay the darn thing off. I’ll be the first to shake your hand.

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Should I Pay Off My Mortgage Instead of Investing originally published at Finance Gourmet

That is why getting an official looking letter in the mail or delivered at work informing you of your “rights” and about an upcoming blackout period can make even savvy investors nervous.

401K Changing Plan Administrators

All 401(k) plans are administered by a third-party. This arrangement protects workers retirement savings by ensuring that the company does not have any access to the money invested by workers in their defined contribution plans like a 401k plan. The third-party is a financial company such as a mutual fund company, insurance company, bank, or brokerage, that takes on the responsibility of accepting deposits, investing money into the proper funds or other investment choices, and keeping track of those investments. And, when the time comes, this third-party is also in charge of completing the withdrawals from your 401(k) and getting the monies to you in the form of a check, band deposit, transfer, or rollover.

This third party is called the plan administrator, because they are responsible for the administration of the plan. The plan administrator does not work for free. Typically, the administrator receives compensation in the form of a cash payment from the company and from each plan participant (worker who invests in the 401k) in the form of extra expenses charged on investments via a higher expense ratio.

Like any other vendor that provides services to the company, they can be replaced by another vendor. This can happen for lots of reasons. The most common reasons a company changes their 401(k) plan administrator are to get lower expenses (usually for both the company and the employees), to get better service, and to better investment choices.

When a 401(k) plan changes its administrator, there are several things that need to happen. Most critical to the employees contributing to the 401(k) plan is that the money currently invested with the old administrator has to be transferred to the new plan administrator. Doing this requires a blackout period.

Why A Blackout Period?

To understand the purpose of the blackout period, it is useful to think about how any financial account, such as a bank account, works.

Unless you deposit cash (actually dollar bills) into the account, the bank must “clear” the funds with wherever the money is coming from. This is just like when you write a check, the money doesn’t disappear immediately from your account, but rather, whoever you wrote the check to, presents the check to your bank for payment. Your bank verifies the check and your account balance and then transfers the money and deducts it from your account.

A similar thing happens in investing. When you sell and investment, the money doesn’t show up instantly. Instead, stock trades “settle” in 3 days. That means that if you sell 100 Shares of XYZ stock on Monday for $5,000 then your brokerage firm will transfer the 100 shares of stock three days later to whoever you sold them to and that person’s brokerage firm will transfer the $5,000 to your brokerage firm on the same day. This is known as “settling.”

However, the money appears in your account instantly and can be re-invested or withdrawn right away. This is because your brokerage firm executed the trade and therefore is certain that it will receive the money from the other firm. But, what if you transferred your account?

The new brokerage firm did not execute your trade, they won’t be the ones receiving the money. So, your account at the new firm will not show your $10,000 cash immediately. (This is typically taken care of automatically via a “residual sweep” where the new broker transfers whatever is left at the old broker a few days later.) This setup works fine on an individual basis, but you can imagine the complexity of doing the same thing for hundreds or thousands of employees.

To avoid any these issues, your 401k plan will impose a blackout period during which time you cannot make any adjustments to how your money is invested. In other words, you can’t buy or sell anything. Since no one can make any trades during this period, when the transfer occurs there won’t be any “unsettled” trades to cause issues. The transfer can happen cleanly and once all of the cash and securities have been received by the new plan administrator, the employee participants can resume buying and selling their investments in their 401(k) account.

What About Enron?

If you paid close attention to the Enron scandal and bankruptcy you may remember that one of the issues was that the Enron retirement plan was in a blackout period while the company was going under and the employees could not move their money out of Enron stock (it probably wouldn’t have helped much if they could have anyway). As a result, 401k regulations were changed to provide for a shorter blackout period. Today, a blackout period is typically only a week or two depending upon the size of the plan.

What Should I Do During Blackout Period?

Usually, you don’t have to do anything when you get a notice that your 401(k) will be in a blackout period. The exception is if you were planning to make changes to your investment allocation within your plan for some other reason. In that case, you will need to decide whether to make the changes before or after the blackout period.

The other exception is if you are retired and withdrawing money from the 401k plan, then you want to make sure that enough money is in cash during the blackout period since you will not be able to sell any existing investments or make a withdrawal. It is especially important to act if you rely on an income distribution from the plan that would normally occur during the blackout period.

For example, if you normally get $3,000 on the 20th of each month and the blackout period will be from the 15th to the 25th, you will NOT get your distribution on the 20th. Therefore, you will need to make arrangements to get your money by the 14th. However, make sure you check with your HR department to find out what will happen to “missed” automatic distributions or you might end up getting paid twice if the company executes missed withdrawals automatically after the blackout period.

If the plan is your only source of income, it makes sense to raise a little extra cash before the blackout period because you will not be able to withdraw money during the blackout period.

Just understanding what the blackout period is should be enough for most workers. If you have plans to do something with your account and the blackout will get in the way, then take action to have it done first. Otherwise, just keep contributing the maximum amount you can to your 401(k) and follow your smart, long-term, diversified investing strategy.

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401(k) Plan Blackout Period originally published at Finance Gourmet

Roth IRA Emergency Fund

In years past, some financial journalists and other professionals have advocated using a Roth IRA as an emergency fund.  Now, that chicken is coming home to roost and the questions abound.  Just how can I use my Roth IRA as my cash reserve, because I need to access those reserves now?

The theory behind the Roth IRA reserve is that the contributions made to a Roth IRA are made with post-tax dollars.  Because if this, they can be withdrawn at any time without additional taxes or penalties.  (You already paid taxes on that money.)  As always, the devil is in the details.

While the IRS will graciously allow you to withdraw your invested capital without penalty, the same may not be true of the companies that money has been invested with.  For example, if you bought mutual funds with a back-end load, or worse, an annuity with a steep surrender charge over a long time period, there is still going to be a penalty, it just won’t be from the tax guys.

If you purchased A shares, or front-load, mutual funds, there won’t be a penalty per se when you withdraw your money, but you might still be paying one.  When an investor purchases front-end loaded mutual funds they pay an upfront fee on the original investment in exchange for lower ongoing mutual fund expenses.  However, like a refinanced mortgage, it takes time for the lower expense ratio to pay for itself to make up the original expense of the load.

As an example, if you invested $50,000 in a mutual fund with a 5% front-load and in doing so got an expense ratio that was 1% less than the equivalent no-load mutual fund, then the original sales charge was $2,500.  That one percent savings on the expense ratio works out to $500 per year in savings.  (This is for example purposes only.  The actual amount of savings would vary dramatically based upon the performance of the fund, this example assumes a constant value for the sake of illustration.  Things would be worse if the fund has been losing value and better if the fund has been increasing in value.)

In other words, if it hasn’t been 5 years since you bought the fun, you are still “behind” where you would have been had you not paid the load.  So while the Feds won’t be looking for any of your money, you still are taking a hit.

And, there is another important consideration.  While you may be entitled to take out $15,000 worth of contributions that you made over the last several years, you will never be entitled to return the $15,000 to your Roth IRA when the emergency is over.  There is still an annual contribution limit regardless of whether you withdraw any funds or not.  That means that the most money you can put back in 2009 is $5,000 (unless eligible for the catch-up contribution.)

For Real Emergencies Only

In other words, while there is some ability to withdraw from a Roth IRA without tax penalty, such an option should only be used in real emergencies.  Remodeling your kitchen, or paying off some credit cards that you can still make payments on, are not emergencies.  A choice between foreclosure or pulling money from your Roth IRA is a real emergency.

Be smart.  Times are tough, but that is when people make mistakes that cost them dearly.  Think clearly and do your research first, and you’ll be fine.

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Using a Roth IRA As Your Emergency Fund originally published at Finance Gourmet

To listen to some in the finance industry and their champions, financial advisors and financial planners are bastions of righteousness steeped in knowledge about financial concepts so complex that no mere mortal could possibly hope to navigate the waters alone.

The truth of course lies in between. In real life, many financial decisions are frighteningly complex and unlike other decisions you may face many of them are irreversible once a mistake has been made. More importantly, some of the biggest financial issues, like retirement, take years to accomplish, and you get one chance. If you try the latest fad diet for a couple of months only to find out it doesn’t work for you, you start over a little wiser and with a little more experience. You could diet hundreds of times in your life. You could talk to friends and family, each of whom has hundreds of times of experience to share with you.

Retirement is a little bit different. You will only retire once (you hope). If you don’t get it right, you can’t start over. Most of your friends and family have never retired either. Those that have may have used techniques that are no longer available to you (generous company pension.)

This is where a good knowledgeable financial advisor or financial planner comes in. Over the course of a long career, he or she will have helped hundreds of people retire. They’ll see what works and what doesn’t. They’ll see what causes people to stumble and where the errors are made along the way, and they’ll guide you through.

Of course the key is “good knowledgeable” financial advisor. Unfortunately, there are way too many financial advisors and financial planners out there who are missing one or both of those key words. This primer is meant to give you some background into just exactly what a financial planner or financial advisor is. (For example, an explanation of what the difference is between those two terms as well as how they differ from a broker, financial representative, etc…)

Check out the Financial Advisors Primer

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Financial Planners and Financial Advisors an Introduction originally published at Finance Gourmet

Direct Link to 401(k) Primer

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New 401(k) Primer Up originally published at Finance Gourmet

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401(k) Loans – The Great Gotcha originally published at Finance Gourmet